January 2, 2011

hug me al balad

I've always wanted to reference T.E. Lawrence (a.k.a. Lawrence of Arabia) in my blog, and finally, here is a quote of his about the historic quarter of Jeddah, Al Balad:

It was indeed a remarkable town. The streets were alleys, wood roofed in the main bazaar, but elsewhere open to the sky in the little gap between the tops of the lofty white-walled houses.

These days, the "lofty white-walled houses" are a bit less impressive and a bit more sparse.

Up until recently, not many cared about this old district that was like a hangover from the past among a rapidly modernizing city... This is the type of modernity that has replaced much of the old fabric.


There was a certain romance about the old city that is now like a lingering ghost in Jeddah. As an example, here is what the Saudi Tourism Commission has to say about one of Al Balad's districts:

One of the alleys that is unfortunately no longer there is Hug Me Alley. This passage was snake shaped and so narrow that only one person at a time could pass through it. If two people were to walk through, they would have to move so close as if they were holding each other.


More of Al Balad here.